Tributes paid to Newtonmore mountaineering legend
TRIBUTES have been paid to a Newtonmore man – described as one of mountaineering’s most influential figures of the past half century – who has passed away unexpectedly.
Mr Alan Blackshaw died at Raigmore Hospital in Inverness on Thursday, aged 78.
He was awarded an OBE around 1990 for his services to mountaineering.
Among his leadership roles, Mr Blackshaw served as President of the British Mountaineering Council, the Alpine Club and the Ski Club of Great Britain.
But friends said it was during the period leading up to the creation of the Land Reform (Scotland) Act, when Mr Blackshaw made his biggest mark in the outdoor world.
He acted as an adviser to Ramblers Scotland, and they said he used his political skills and detailed knowledge of the legislative process to help achieve some of the best access arrangements in the world for Scotland.
Friend Cameron McNeish said he was deeply saddened by the death of Mr Blackshaw.
The broadcaster said: "Only a few weeks ago I had dinner with Alan, his wife Elspeth and mountain guide Sandy Allan.
"We had a convivial evening and Alan enthusiastically told us of plans for mountaineering and sailing trips.
"It’s hard to believe he’s not around any more."
Mr McNeish said: "Alan lived in the same village as me and he became a good friend over the years, particularly during the time I served as President of Ramblers Scotland.
"At that time Alan acted as an adviser to the Ramblers on access issues and his knowledge and political skills were crucial during the debates leading up to the creation of the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003.
"Like many mountain folk of my generation Alan’s name was well known as the author of the textbook Mountaineering – from Hillwalking to Alpine Climbing, published by Penguin in 1966.
"Despite the proper title, everyone knew it as ‘Blackshaw’s Mountaineering’."
Mr McNeish said: "I don’t think I’ve known anyone who has served mountaineering in such a deep and diverse way.
"Alan joined the Mountaineering Commission in 1985 and six years later became its president (1991-97).
"This was at a time of great change within mountaineering with the introduction of climbing competition and an explosion in the popularity of indoor climbing walls.
"Recognising the importance of these changes Alan helped introduce competition climbing and ski mountaineering competitions into the UIAA, the world governing body for mountaineering."
In the fifties, Mr Blackshaw made significant climbs in the Alps including the North-East Face of Piz Badile, the North Face of the Triolet, and the South Face of Pointe Gugliermina.
Later in his career he became a passionate ski mountaineer and in 1972 made a continuous ski traverse of the Alps (Kaprun-Gap).
Between 1973 and 1978 over a series of visits, he skied Scandinavia end-to-end (Lakselv-Adneram). He also climbed in the Caucasus, Greenland and Garwhal.
His time as a civil servant included a senior position in the UK delegation to the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), acting as the Principal Private Secretary to three Ministers of Power, including Tony Benn, and other senior postings connected to coal, North Sea oil, and manufacturing of iron and steel.
Climbing expert Iain Peter, who lives in Kingussie, met Alan whilst he was working as training officer at the British Mountaineering Council.
Mr Peter said: "He was a past president and widely recognised as a ‘safe pair of hands’. I had some ideas about reforming mountain training in the United Kingdom.
"Together we worked for over two years from 1990 to 1991 reviewing how the various home nation mountain training organisations worked.
"He was tireless in his enthusiasm and unstinting in his dedication. He curbed my excesses and won the hearts and minds of all involved.
"That the system proposed is still in place today is testament to Alan’s understanding, vision and strategy. I feel privileged to have known and worked with him."
MCofS President Chris Townsend also paid tribute.
He said: "During a long and fruitful career Alan worked tirelessly for climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers.
"He was an intellectual giant and made an immense contribution to the international and national mountaineering world.
"His presence will be sorely missed."
Mr Blackshaw died as a result of complications relating to non-Hodgkin’s Lymphoma.
His wife, Elspeth, better known as Dr Martin to patients where she works at Aviemore Health Centre, said he had been keeping in good health until three weeks ago.
Mr Blackshaw, of Rhu Grianach, Kingussie Road, Newtonmore, is also survived by his son, Alasdair, daughters, Elsie and Ruthie, and Sara from a previous marriage.
His funeral will take place at the Cathedral Church of St Andrew in Inverness on August 19 at 1.15pm.
The family want it to be a celebration of Mr Blackshaw's life and those attending are asked to wear some colour.
Please note that these funeral details differ to those printed in the paper and those above are correct.
