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LONG READ: Fab four lay down best tracks for snowsports fun in Cairngorms





The most comprehensive book to snowsports in the Cairngorms National Park is the results of a team effort by Jamie Johnston, Blair Aitken, Katie Henderson and Scott Muir.
The most comprehensive book to snowsports in the Cairngorms National Park is the results of a team effort by Jamie Johnston, Blair Aitken, Katie Henderson and Scott Muir.

Four snowsports fans have pooled their considerable knowledge to create the most comprehensive guide ever to skiing in the Cairngorms National Park.

The first words were written in 2012, and Scott Muir and Jamie Johnston made steady progress on and off from there.

But ‘Skiing and Snowboarding in the Cairngorms National Park’ really gained momentum when Blair Aitken proposed a group effort last year, and brought Katie Henderson on board at the same time.

The result is a newly published 446 page blow by blow guide - weighing in at 850 grammes - from lift served runs at Cairngorm and the other national park ski resorts to some of the most remote backcountry descents.

Ski touring to gully descents are covered and there are even pointers where to still find skiable snow in mid-summer.

Katie Henderson skis Hilary's Face on Beinn a' Bhuird.
Katie Henderson skis Hilary's Face on Beinn a' Bhuird.

The numerically listed runs - there are 361 in all - have detailed descriptions, slope gradings, maps and some stunning images.

All have been skied by the four authors in varied conditions and over a period of many years.

Rather than simply outlining set route itineraries, the quartet have recognised skiing in Scotland is highly aspect-dependent.

By presenting multiple descents on each mountain spread across a range of aspects, they aim to give skiers the tools to plan their days out more effectively, and to make the most of conditions.

But - beyond being a guidebook - the quartet also wanted the book to celebrate and capture the folklore and history of the mountains too.

The new book is the most comprehensive guide yet to skiing and snowboarding in the Cairngorms National Park.
The new book is the most comprehensive guide yet to skiing and snowboarding in the Cairngorms National Park.

Johnston told the Strathy: “It was important to us to only include routes we knew about, were familiar with, and not to include anything speculative.

“It’s definitely fair to say this is the most comprehensive book ever published on skiing in the national park.

“Because of its scope and the scale of the task, this book has been in the making for many years, to the point that people - including ourselves - ceased to think it would ever see the light of day!”

All four authors grew up skiing, hillwalking and climbing in the Cairngorms and the surrounding ranges.

Former GB Olympian and half-pipe world number one Lesley McKenna snowboards Windy Col into Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairn Gorm. Picture: Euan Baxter.
Former GB Olympian and half-pipe world number one Lesley McKenna snowboards Windy Col into Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairn Gorm. Picture: Euan Baxter.

Johnston said: “When you spend enough time in the mountains, and your experience grows, you can’t help but notice the snow on distant hills, watching others venture there and wonder what it might be like or if it's something that you could do, too.

“I was lucky to have made so many great friends on the ski lifts of Cairn Gorm that ski toured already and who were able to introduce me to it too.”

Aitken commented: “For many ski tourers, it's about the journey. For others, the descents. A combined interest in both, and in chasing the best conditions, has taken the four of us to far-flung corners of the range.”

He has gone on from his formative ventures to create a successful business - British Backcountry - out of introducing people to ski touring and backcountry skiing, and it is clear to see that the sport is really taking off.

Lesley McKenna snowboards the Cas Headwall of Cairn Gorm. Picture: Euan Baxter.
Lesley McKenna snowboards the Cas Headwall of Cairn Gorm. Picture: Euan Baxter.

But Henderson said: “The idea of a guidebook for skiing in the Cairngorms had been on our minds for a long time.

“We wanted to create a book that would be of interest to piste skiers, people who wanted to know about lift-served off-piste and to ski tourers wanting remoter descents of every type.

“Given the vastness of the Cairngorms National Park, we knew it would be a major challenge to do it justice and collaboration was the only way to cover the ground and to make it possible.”

Muir commented: “A lot of the research was carried out unintentionally, from ski touring and from skiing descents across the range over a period of 25 to 40 years each.

“The focus for our skiing was always on fun, adventure, and shared experiences with friends or - latterly - with clients, too. The book became a product of that.”

Skiing 'The Numbers' over the back of Cairn Gorm.
Skiing 'The Numbers' over the back of Cairn Gorm.

Modern equipment enhancements - in terms of light weight and performance - have made the sport more accessible than it has ever been.

And with an increasing presence on social media, people are now more aware than ever before of the ski touring possibilities in Scotland.

Johnston said: “I think the appeal lies in the ability to pursue a passion while also embracing adventure, solitude, friendship, physical challenge, self-reliance, and a connection to the mountains.

Aitken added: “The unpredictability of the Scottish winter - and the ongoing challenge of interpreting and chasing the best conditions - adds to the allure, making Scottish backcountry and ski touring all the more compelling, and the good days even more rewarding.”

Splitboarding over the back of the Lecht. Picture: Stevie McKenna.
Splitboarding over the back of the Lecht. Picture: Stevie McKenna.

More than just a guide book

It was a much smaller publication ‘Ski Touring in the Northern Cairngorms by Aitken’ which thankfully gave renewed impetus to get the book published.

Johnston explained: “Blair’s ski touring clients kept asking him for guidance and advice on what they could do by themselves, or if a book would ever come out.

“He knew that this book was in the making, although at that stage he wasn’t involved, so he set out to create an offering that ended up becoming a mini guide by himself in 2023 covering the Northern Cairngorms only.”

Scott Muir skis 'Beast from the East' to Gleann Eanaich. Picture: Hamish Frost.
Scott Muir skis 'Beast from the East' to Gleann Eanaich. Picture: Hamish Frost.

It was a simple guide with a limited print and intended to sell to his clients only but his run sold out almost instantly.

Johnston said: “We then realised we all had to get together in a shared effort and see this project properly through to completion!

“It wouldn’t have been possible without the input of all of us.”

He continued: “We are so pleased with the scope of what we’ve been able to cover and include - and not just in terms of the descents and photos but so many people have commented positively on the place name translations and pronunciations, and the historical and folklore aspects.

“It ended up being quite a tome - 460 pages, and 850g in weight - which was essential to try and do the area proper justice.”

Gavin Baxter skiing to the A93 off the east side of Carn Aosda. Picture: Katie Henderson.
Gavin Baxter skiing to the A93 off the east side of Carn Aosda. Picture: Katie Henderson.

The authors have included stories of events that shaped the places, how they got their names, and the people who came before today’s generation of local ski and snowboard fans.

Also included in the book is a detailed history of skiing in the region, along with previously unpublished information and proposals.

Who knew that there was once a plan to build a 10 km lift network across the Cairngorms connecting Beinn a' Bhuird to Cairn Gorm?

The book also includes Gaelic place name pronunciations and translations for every name in the book—not just of summits but of the burns, ridges, corries, and lochans, too.

Donald Hall and Lesley McKenna ascend by the ridge of Coire an Lochain, on the north side of Braeriach. Picture: Euan Baxter.
Donald Hall and Lesley McKenna ascend by the ridge of Coire an Lochain, on the north side of Braeriach. Picture: Euan Baxter.

For that, the authors are indebted to the late Dr Adam Watson,who willingly contributed so much of his time back in the earliest stages of the project.

Skiing and Snowboarding in the Cairngorms National Park (RRP £25) ISBN 978-1-83709-008-02 is available at https://www.british-backcountry.co.uk/guide-book/cairngorms.

It is for sale locally in Cairngorm Mountain Sports, Braemar Mountain Sports, in the Mountain Shop at Cairn Gorm, in Ellis Brigham, and at Backcountry Books (web shop)

* * *

A British Backcountry group descending to the lochain in Coire an Lochain by Braeriach.
A British Backcountry group descending to the lochain in Coire an Lochain by Braeriach.

The Strathy spoke to one of the authors Jamie Johnston about his favourite runs in the Cairngorms.

Here’s what he had to say…. and of course remember Jamie is an expert and skiers and snowboarders should ride to their ability level

One of my favourite combinations can be done as part of the popular ski tour from Cairn Gorm to Ben Macdui, but which is often missed.

The first part is super accessible, and heads off east then north from the summit of Ben Macdui down the broad, moderately angled bowl of Garbh Uisge Mor, also known as the snowy corrie.

Reliable and long lasting snow collects here, blown in on prevailing winds.

You can enjoy a flowing descent of up to three kilometres in length until shortly before the point at which the ground becomes more complex and begins to drop away steeply into the Loch Avon basin.

At this point, most ski tourers will regain the plateau and perhaps finish their day on something like Lurcher's Gully.

For experienced skiers, however, there are several exciting steep descents to continue down to Loch Avon by.

Of these, the best is Castlegates Gully - a couloir with high rock walls that frames the view towards Loch Avon spectacularly for the entire descent. On a good day you can ski right to the beach!

Of the challenging descents I have done, there are many highlights.

One is the descent of West Gully from very near the summit of Braeriach, into Coire Bhrochain.

On several occasions I have had to cut the cornice to gain access but on other occasions it hasn't been necessary.

The gully is fairly wide but extremely steep at the stop.

It offers 300m of sustained vertical to the corrie floor, and the entire gully faces straight on to the Lairig Ghru, with a fabulous outlook over to Ben Macdui on one side, and Cairn Toul and the hanging corrie of Sgor an Lochain Uaine on the other.

It's a magnificent place to be for suitably experienced skiers, and it tends to be very snow reliable.


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